Arizona Outdoorsman / AZOD

Boat Camping On Lake Powell

Down But Not Out

Linda Dightmon

Team AZOD

The love affair for Lake Powell began in the mid 1980’s. Our family rented a houseboat and enjoyed one of the best vacations ever. Not too many years went by without at least one houseboat week. That is, until recently. It has been four years since I have enjoyed the blue green waters of Powell and the jones had to be satisfied. So, the last week of September 2004 was chosen for a weeklong boat camping trip. Not coincidently, this was also my birthday week and a full moon week. We readied Salt and Pepper, our 22’ deck boat and our friends, Lisa and Ernst, took their 26’ cabin cruiser, The Italian Princess. Between the two boats we felt that we had the best of both worlds.

Involuntary gasps at the first glimpse of the condition of the granddaddy lake are inevitable. On the water, it just became more striking. Wahweap Bay—shrunk to a fraction of its former self. Warm Creek—gone, Padre Bay AKA “the big Kahuna”—reduced to “Padre Cove”. Wow! The absolute rule of Mother Nature is illustrated in dramatic fashion at Lake Powell. The lake was less than 40 percent.

If we look at it from the glass is half full perspective, it sounds better. At 38 percent capacity, 129 feet below full pool, Lake Powell has 81,300 acre-feet of surface. That, folks, is still a lot of water. If we overlook the bathtub ring…well, it is still Lake Powell, arguably, the most scenic lake in the world.

Our trip began at Wahweap Marina. The ramp is long, really really long. But it reaches the water. There are three lanes in the center with pipe matting on it. We launched and retrieved the Italian Princess with no problem. Concrete has been poured to the waters edge so the tow vehicles have good traction once underway. Four-wheel drive is recommended but we saw plenty of two wheel drives especially with the smaller boats.

Leaving the marina all traffic must go through the channel. Antelope Island could be renamed Antelope Peninsula. This was the worst of it for us. We wanted to go to the upper parts of the lake. It gets so skinny in places that it is flat wake only. There is a brand new marina at Antelope Point. Since we arrived late in the afternoon, we rented a slip there for thirty dollars, put both boats in it and spent the night. We were slipped next to a 2 million dollar houseboat! There is also a launch ramp at Antelope Point, which is owned and operated by the Navajo Nation. This ramp is very steep and literally cut into the mountain. It is a valet service launch with a minimum thirty-dollar charge in and out.

The next morning was bright and beautiful. We had our breakfast and headed up. The narrows go from mile 12 to about mile 20. The water is very choppy because of boat traffic making that 8-mile stretch very uncomfortable. After that point, it was the Lake Powell that I have had so much fun on over the years. We motored on up to Dangling Rope and topped off the gas tank. At three bucks a gallon it wasn’t exactly a bargain but no one complained. This marina is located at mile 42, approximately the middle of the lake, and accessible only by water. If you go, be sure to feed the carp and stripers begging at the docks and purchase the hottest selling item, soft serve ice cream.

We spent the next few days about 8 miles up the San Juan. The San Juan comes in at about mile 57. This part of the lake has the least amount of people. It was like having a private stretch of water the size of Lake Pleasant. I was treated to eggs Benedict for my birthday breakfast and fresh fish for dinner. Lisa even smuggled up a birthday carrot cake. I have some great friends...and they can cook!

I believe that autumn is the best time of year to go. We had daytime temperatures of 75 or so and evenings in the 50s. The infamous winds seem to lie down in the fall and the summer crowds have thinned out. There is still plenty of company, especially near the marinas but finding a place to dock is easier.

After the San Juan we boated all the way to Halls Crossing at mile 95. The entire marina has been moved to the water and is open with all services. Hite and Bullfrog are out of operation, except for the mooring of boats but the ferry is running. This was about midway of our week and where we began the trip back. We spent a couple of nights on the Colorado proper where a refreshing thunderstorm came over and made instant waterfalls on the cliffs. The last two nights we camped in Rock Creek, enjoying moon bathed canyon walls, glass waters and an occasional sip of Cabernet.

There are tons of smallmouth bass on this lake. They seem to have taken over. We had fish on the menu for two nights and we kept some 10-12 inch class smallmouth for these meals. The limit for smallies is 20 per person. Since there were four of us, we could have legally taken 80! We caught at least that many, probably more, but released most. There was no size to them, but we caught most of them trolling crankbaits and a 12 inch smallie with my mid size rod and reel felt like a monster. GREAT FUN!

September is also the time for striper boils. We didn’t fish for them but there were many who did. Powell fishermen are encouraged to keep any and all stripers caught. The secret to good tasting filets is to ice them down immediately. Most schools are around the steep walls of Antelope Canyon and the lower lake. Channel catfish are also very active this time of year and we caught lots of those as well. We had our best fishing on or near the main channel. Arizona residents must purchase a Utah Stamp to fish. It costs eight dollars.

Houseboating is a great way to experience Powell, especially for a newbie. Because of the water levels, venders are offering some great deals. We received one offer in the mail where you rent the boat and they would supply the fuel. Make sure that you get along well with your fellow houseboaters and bring along or rent a little boat for exploring or fishing. We also found that it is better to move only once or twice during the week.

Our week on the big lake was peaceful and wonderful with little wind and weather. Do not be fooled. Even at 38 percent, Lake Powell is big water and deserves respect. A marine radio is important for current and upcoming weather alerts. Tie up all boats securely when docking. The low water levels bring lots of unmarked hazards, be extra careful when navigating at night. Don’t even think about it in a houseboat. Oh, and one other thing from this Powell veteran—beware the tour boat! That thing throws a killer wake.

This link is the best site that I have found for Lake Powell information.

http://www.wayneswords.com/index.html

Waheap bay 2004